31 Dec - Ha Long Bay to Hanoi

Body clock still thought it was yesterday hence waking up at 5am though the cold draft may had something to do with it. Sorry to say that Kerry's illness has come back. Before returning back to port we had a tour around the Ha Long bay caves, a pleasant surprise as they were a lot bigger than expected. Lots of strange shaped rocks with different names. Shame we got stuck behind a French dude with bad B.O. ala Pepe Le Poo.

The coach drive back to Hanoi had many eye-opening views. I saw a shop called 'Tit' - I think it was a women's clothes shop; two mopeds delivering a full sized fridge-freezer and a 40" LCD TV; saw what could have been a really nasty, freak accident as a cement truck had a flat on the opposite direction and the driver with mate let the spare wheel bounce a couple of times right in front of some heavy traffic; finally, I swear I saw a family of 4 on a moped with the mother at the back breastfeeding. Lunch was quite expensive at the roadside world of marble superstore which also served as a 3 hour tailor service, jeweller, cafe shop with spring rolls and chips. These particular springs rolls were the worst yet but somehow didn't put me off enough for later.

We only had an hour to get ready plus I had to buy more antibiotics for Kerry whilst she checked us in on the flight home. We didn't make the walking tour but made our own way to meet the others at the Sofitel through Hanoi's old quarter. It had lots of narrow streets and heaving with traffic with Kerry getting almost run over twice. There were a couple of music stages being set up ready for the evening's countdown event along the way and we saw some people playing badminton where the pavements had specially marked out courts. The stress levels rose as we couldn't find the hotel. After asking two people we realised it was the Metropole. This must have been the poshest place yet. No wonder the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Roger Moore and Oscar Wilde had dined there.

When all of us had arrived and a had a few to drink, we booked two taxis back into the Old Quarter for a our last group meal. Unfortunately, it was more Vietnamese food so more (bloody) spring rolls. I don't think my stomach could take anymore and longed for just anything European as I think the travel and lack of sleep was catching up. Not a great attitude for New Year's Eve.

We walked back towards the Metropole hotel through the crowds milling around in readiness or by some curiosity at the sound-stages pumping out cheesy techno and dance music. It was a great atmosphere even if the locals weren't drinking enough! A few more pricey cocktails and champagne at the hotel we slipped out to see the final countdown at the Heineken soundstage. According to the BBC News website it was Vietnam's first ever western style countdown. Gerry, one of the Exodus group made our night and stormed the stage and trying to jump on a moped causing it to wheelie and fall off. The countdown itself was a little muted due to the crowd but a lot of locals seemed quite amused by our celebrating. More drinks at the Metropole followed a cramped taxi ride home with Gerry beeping the horn and shouting out the window to anyone.