26 Dec Boxing Day - Quy Nho'n to Hoi An

Not the best night's sleep and a 6am wake up call. People were already playing on the beach. Breakfast had everything an Asian could want but my European stomach could only handle pineapple. We took the coach for about an hour then set off by bike through a small town to see their market. Talk about sticking out like a sore thumb, the locals were completely amused we were there and how we looked but still friendly. As well as the unusual fish on sale it was the frogs bound together in threes and the meat entrails that were an eye opener. Walking around the market and we'd picked the Vietnamese version of Frank Spencer who was equally fascinated by us. Shame that the surrounding area and drains were strewn with rubbish.

The next few km were either flat like the Fens with strong headwind or hills whipping sand into us. At one point the wind was so strong we had to walk up the hill. The wind was quite demoralising so I made the (wrong) decision to stay on the bus for the second leg. It looked a good decision when rained but it stopped soon after. We spent a dull 30 minutes until the third leg which had less wind but the rain came back heavier and more constant. Refreshing at first but annoying when we got soaked. At lunch we had to change clothes for our final coach stage of 4 hours. The journey was damp with rain as we drove north. Looks like we'll need the rain coats.

About an hour's bus ride, we stopped to visit the memorial site called My Lai where US forces had killed about 1600 innocent people from 4 villages back in 1969. A Colonel Calley was trialled in 1970 for his war crimes but I think I read he was let out after 2 years. The Vietnamese presentation of the artefacts was understandably bitter against the US.

For entertainment on the coach, our rep put on the DVD for A Quiet American, a story based on the early part of the Vietnam war when French were still involved with the war. Both Saigon / Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An were featured as film locations. We also realised where our rep, Long had got some of his English sayings having admitted to liking Michael Caine though he never said 'you're only supposed to blow the bloody doors off!' since that wouldn't really come up in conversation I suppose.

The Hoi An Golf hotel had the distinct feeling of being a drafty building site especially as our room was next to a new wind being renovated. We soon moved after that and organised some laundry too at $1 per kilo. Long had arrnaged an evening meal at the Banana Leaf Cafe which was a 10 minute walk through the town's old quarter which was UNESCO protected. It was a refreshing change from the over-developed places previously visited getting a real sense of history and culture. Food was good quality Vietnamese with local delicacy, White Rose (pork and shrimp dumplings) agreeing with us and Kerry ordering a (seaside style) bucket of Mojito. My Duck l'Orange was good but needed rice. The menu also offered a decent breakfast as well as a great view of the river so a next day visit was guaranteed.

Related articles

• 27 Dec - Hoi An (gingerdjrob.com)
• Top Gear Trip to Hoi An - Hoi An, Vietnam (travelpod.com)
• Too fast, not too furious (lookatvietnam.com)