Peru Day 12: A happy Machu Picchu birthday Kerry

Image by Ginger DJ via Flickr

The last day of the hike before reaching Machu Picchu had to be started extra early so why change the routine of the holiday! 4:00am start - Yay! Loving those early nights! Breakfast was a special moment for us as Socrates gave the ruse of pancakes but really the cook had been preparing a birthday cake. It was great with a sponge base, not too sweet, white frosted cream topping, written in caramel sauce, Happy Birthday Kerry (in Spanish), and 2 matches for a candle. Kerry was in tears of delight as we all sang happy birthday and the cake cut in equal shares between us and the porters etc.

Before queuing up for the checkpoint opening, we had to meet our rep at the restaurant. A quick look in the toilets before the last trek wasn't the best idea as it seemed everyone had been before us leaving them in the most inhumane state I've ever seen (it was piled up). Instead, we joined the back of the 200+ queue for the 15 minutes before the 5:30am opening time. It was a fast start with some easy stretches with inly some steep steps towards the end. It took about an hour and 15 mins, by which dawn had broken, to reach the steepest stairs yet - 60 steps of vertical bastardness! At the top was the Sun Gate and our first view of Machu Picchu. It was breathtaking and a lot bigger than I expected, though sharing the vista with 50 others was a bit weird. Still photos a plenty, but onwards for another rich view to enjoy, and llamas!

Machu Pucchu
The main site was relatively quiet but buses were starting to feed the Machu Picchu site making our 3.5 day trek seems a little worthless. We were getting annoyed and frustrated with the rules of having to hand in my small backpack as more tourists entered the site. In retrospect, we had the best entrance and first view but it seemed cruel to open the gates to the lazy, bused in people. Anyone who's walked more than 2 days there should have the privilege of the site for the first hour.

Socrates, our guide took us round for an hour explaining the main features but I was either busy taking photos or trying to rest, avoiding the sun - remember we only had birthday cake for breakfast! Our starting point had an amazing view of the mountain and most of the Inca site. Llamas were grazing nearby, finches hopped around and swallows swooped above our heads making it a perfect, magical place, perfect for I wanted to give Kerry her birthday surprise.

Kerry's birthday surprise
With hunger, tiredness and some suffering from the heat, we settled for a quiet position to watch the swallows divebomb and lines of tourists following their guide or being whistled at by the security guard. After a prepacked sandwich to recover the energies we explored the lower terraces but couldn't quite return to that perfect place I had in mind. Instead we settled for a lower position still with a view of the mountain and main Inca ruins. I was little nervous and shy, plus I had to get Kerry in the standing position and myself kneeling for the right moment. With our 'Sasha' toy cat as a photo ploy I managed to re-propose and present Kerry with her diamond engagement ring. A slight look of shock, confusion then absolute elation whilst I went from a nervous wreck to one smiley, loved up guy...ahh! We'd somehow managed to attract a small crowd above us with some applause which added to the magic moment. Unfortunately, even after all the jeweller's advice, the ring was actually too small so Kerry could only wear it on her little finger (even after returning to normal altitudes it had to be resized).

We hung around getting some llama photos but couldn't muster the energy for a hike up to the top again so went in search of a cold drink and food. The cafe at the entrance had the most expensive prices yet, even more than UK top tourist spots. A small tub of Pringles was 13 Sols, or £5! Still the ice cream and Inca Cola went down well.

We caught up with our French Canadian friends and caught the stomach churning 30 minute bus ride down the mountain stopping at Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). It was a strange new town divided by the train line and felt like a modern cowboy film set. Socrates had advised us to meet at a restaurant to collect our porter baggage and have a final goodbye meal. We ordered pizza and beer, and watched a guinea pig get roasted in the same oven. It looked like a charred rat with a toothy expression.

Train back to (almost) Cusco
Our backpacker class tickets were handed over at the station where it looked like everyone who visited Machu Picchu that day was heading back to Cusco. The train looked like a second hand refit from 1920's and was just as uncomfortable. The seats faced inwards and had very little leg room, just what a tired trekker really needs! Windows were permanently open to relieve the constant rocking side to side queasiness with a number of people looking a bit worse for wear. For 3 long hours I had to endure the worst stitch I've ever had (which could only be relieved by sitting in the brace position) and put up with some old Americans sharing their lame opinions on such dull subjects (one small moment of twisted joy was hearing them go on about the lightning they thought they saw - it was actually my camera flash). The train didn't even get to Cusco stopping short a few miles outside at Poroy. A car-park full of tourist mini-vans were waiting for us for the remaining 20 minute drive. The journey through Cusco showed a less than tourist view of Peruvian life with dogs eating from skips or running in packs across the road, lots of internet cafes neighbouring corner shops selling bottled drinks and chocolate, and the odd bloke taking a piss on the street here and there.

We didn't bother about dinner as we got back about 9pm but instead fell asleep watching a rubbish TV channel that showed you how to make arts and crafts - tonight's was frilly g-strings, no, really it was!